mb2tv MH Design

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
Seats are now clean and rust free (pics later, as it is still a bit damp so not representative).

Here is my first question:
I am considering how to build the bed frame at the back.
There are three options I can think of:

1. 2" X 4" wood beams
2. Ikea bed bars (the once you can extend to any length)
3. Aluminium frame - what our USA friends call 80-20. I thought of using 40mm square.

I should add that the current thought is to make a frame in such a way that it can be raised with linear actuators for ease of use (the bicycles are going to be there, and will be easy to take in/out).

Any one used the aluminium frame? The weight difference between that and 2" X 4" wood is not that big, but it will be thinner - hence more space.

Any thought/comments are welcome.

Thanks

mbt2v
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Seat now cleaned and painted:
IMG_20210411_114943199.jpg
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
for hot water you might consider using inexpensive therme 2. it has 2 options passive using webasto hot air and/or/both electric 300 watts.
Interesting!
The only drawback i can see is that it is only 5L. We prefer 10L, and were willing to compromise at a push at 6L, 5L might not pass the review...
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
4” x 2” sounds a bit ott to me, I had an ikea bed in the house and that was built out of 4” x 1” frame.
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Thought of using 4" X 2" as 4" X 1" will need a bit of support considering the width.
I am leaning towards aluminium profile for size and strength.
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
Thought of using 4" X 2" as 4" X 1" will need a bit of support considering the width.
I am leaning towards aluminium profile for size and strength.
The IKEA bed had the two side beams plus a centre beam, this fitted in well with their slats. Aluminium profile may be stronger by weight I don’t know, a few on here use Ali though so they can probably tell you, I was just highlighting the wood IKEA use rather than suggesting it as an option 👍
 

wildebus

Forum Member
The IKEA bed had the two side beams plus a centre beam, this fitted in well with their slats. Aluminium profile may be stronger by weight I don’t know, a few on here use Ali though so they can probably tell you, I was just highlighting the wood IKEA use rather than suggesting it as an option 👍
Yup, IKEA is actually a slight mix - generally wood for the frame, legs and slats, but on the double size and larger, there are two sets of slats side by side and there is a central aluminium beam that allows support for the full length of the bed without needed a central leg.
That can be very handy if you want a clear 'garage' space underneath. I used this beam but adapted it to suit the Froli head rest kit.

Also, what can be handy about the IKEA option is that when you buy a bed from IKEA, you are in a way buying a bed "solution" - in that you order all the individual items needed to make up the bed. The relevance of this being that if there is a certain item you don't need, you can just not order that part rather than having to pay for it and chuck it away. It also means if there is a specific item that would suit your own design (say this central beam I talked about), you can just buy that part and nothing else.
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Yup, IKEA is actually a slight mix - generally wood for the frame, legs and slats, but on the double size and larger, there are two sets of slats side by side and there is a central aluminium beam that allows support for the full length of the bed without needed a central leg.
That can be very handy if you want a clear 'garage' space underneath. I used this beam but adapted it to suit the Froli head rest kit.

Also, what can be handy about the IKEA option is that when you buy a bed from IKEA, you are in a way buying a bed "solution" - in that you order all the individual items needed to make up the bed. The relevance of this being that if there is a certain item you don't need, you can just not order that part rather than having to pay for it and chuck it away. It also means if there is a specific item that would suit your own design (say this central beam I talked about), you can just buy that part and nothing else.
We had a look at Ikea - we definitely like the salts idea. Thankyou!
Also the centre beam they sell might be attractive, as it only weighs 3.6kg. The Aluminium profile is about 1.8kg/m so about the same. will consider!
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
A security question:
Has anyone fitted (either self or by someone) additional locks to the van?
I read about locking the driver swivel seat so it cannot be used for driving and using a steering lock.
I searched a bit and there seem to be this lock manufacturer that make hook locks for the van doors - mostly builders vans. What was not clear (and it does not indicate ) if there is an option to lock from the inside - you obviously do not want to lock yourself too much - there need to be a comfortable escape route.
Any experiences with security locks?

Many Thanks!
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
If you are using your fron seats turned round I don’t think you can secure cab doors with strap/chain/bars but do double check. Make of van plays a part with some models reportedly easy to break in to. I have some armourguard(?) plates around cab locks but that’s it, mine is sprinter based coachbuilt.
At the end of the day it’s easy to get through a window so decide what it is you are aiming at protecting from and work from there. A lot of places I no longer even lock the van up but I am usually close by when it’s like that.
 

wildebus

Forum Member
A security question:
Has anyone fitted (either self or by someone) additional locks to the van?
I read about locking the driver swivel seat so it cannot be used for driving and using a steering lock.
I searched a bit and there seem to be this lock manufacturer that make hook locks for the van doors - mostly builders vans. What was not clear (and it does not indicate ) if there is an option to lock from the inside - you obviously do not want to lock yourself too much - there need to be a comfortable escape route.
Any experiences with security locks?

Many Thanks!
I looked into this a little while ago and thought these looked good - https://www.roseawnings.co.uk/shop/accessories/thule-van-security/thule-cab-lock/ - That is just an example link - I think I have seen them for around £100 a pair?
I was quite tempted but I have the fiamma blinds on the cab doors and would have to make mods - and I just know I would not get round to doing so :(

The Swivel seat lock is a very good way to add security - add a big chain padlock around the seat and base and jobs a good 'un.

FWIW, I have one of these - https://amzn.to/3e01KoR - I think for under £20, it is a good visual deterrent for anyone thinking they could quickly make away with the van (as opposed to just breaking in).
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Very good points!
I am going to have the Seitz windows, so over securing the doors does not make sense, at least not to the n-th degree.
plates around cab locks
Yes- that is a good idea! Thought about it but it makes more sense than ultra locking.
The Swivel seat lock is a very good way to add security - add a big chain padlock around the seat and base and jobs a good 'un.
I was thinking about a small lock - seen it somewhere (another forum?) using this lock - seem 'simple' enough.

FWIW, I have one of these - https://amzn.to/3e01KoR - I think for under £20, it is a good visual deterrent for anyone thinking they could quickly make away with the van (as opposed to just breaking in).
Thanks - good idea! I will just need to make sure it works with steal wheels, as that what I am having, at least for now.

As for steering lock I thought of something like this - as what you really want is a deterrent more then anything else.

Thank you!
 

wildebus

Forum Member
That steering wheel lock looks nice and neat - and very visual!
I bought this one - https://amzn.to/3uHutWc - based on general feedback and I am sure it is good but a bit of a pain to use (maybe with experience it gets easier?) but I like the one you linked to better for neatness (and price!).

I am sure the wheel clamp will work fine on steels (I have used it on the little trailer I have and can try it on my LT wheel if you want?) but if you have wheel trims that would make it no good.
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
I am sure the wheel clamp will work fine on steels (I have used it on the little trailer I have and can try it on my LT wheel if you want?) but if you have wheel trims that would make it no good.

Screenshot 2021-04-13 220655.jpg


Thanks for the offer - no need as there is no rush, just trying to do our homework.
From the picture above, there should not be any obstruction.
I think we have now forged a plan for the security side (y)

Thank you all for all the help!
 

Nabsim

Forum Member
If I wanted to beef up security I would be looking at one of those steering wheel cover locks, actually almost clicked buy a couple of times, the other thing would be a pedal box type lock. If you have swivel seats then locking drivers seat turned will certainly make it difficult if you get a decent lock as would removing the steering wheel in most instances. Problem now is all the air bag and other connections on the wheel.
I had two internal cab door locks on mine that worked the way those Dave posted do, not sure if mine are Millenco or Fiamma, they are a big chromed block. I ended up taking them off as I would want to get in one of the cab doors only to find Mrs had locked them. Gets very annoying after a while lol
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Thanks Nabsim, yes, there need to be some balance as if it takes 1/2 an hour to lock/unlock, with a dozen of keys, it take the fun out. I also appriciated you comment about the windows, i did not think of this.
At least at the moment I think we will try to achieve the best we can with max visibility, i.e. door plates, swivel lock, wheel lock and maybe steering wheel lock. Add to that and you might prefer to stay at home...
The car will also have its own alarm.

Many thanks
 

wildebus

Forum Member
balance is the key :)
I have the steering lock and wheel clamp. Been in the cubby under the benchseat for 4 months now :D (I park the car in front of the van so that is my security - but as soon as out and about again, those devices might come out depending on what the area looks like - good to have the options :) )
 

mb2tv

Forum Member
Progress:
I had a look at how to build the bed. I thought of 3 options:
Aluminium extrusion (say 40X40)
Wooden frame (combination of 2X4 and 1X4)
Ikea extendable beam

The Ikea slats I think is the best option for all the above. I have compared price and weight for the options, and also ease of build. After much consideration I think the Ikea beams are the option I will go with. Aluminium extrusion though tempting is very expensive (I estimate around £100 just for materials) and also does not have a big weight advantage - there will be only about 2kg difference! The cheapest and lightest option is the Ikea beams, so at least on paper that is what I am going with.

Looking now at the kitchen unit (size L X H X W 1.2m X 0.7m X 0.5m) - two build option to consider: a frame with sides and front (25mmX40mm pine and light plywood at 6mm) or a complete cupboard from light plywood (15mm thick). weight-wise, there is not a lot between them. I have calculated that the frame and thin plywood will be about 4kg lighter. most caravans are built in a similar way (using thinner plywood or laminates)
Any other consideration to choose one over the other I should be aware of?

Many Thanks
 
Last edited:

SquirrellCook

Forum Member
I don't mean to be rude, but 40x40 aluminium box is overkill unless you have a serious weight problem.
The Murky and Betty build uses 40 x 20 x 3 and that is overkill. The Murky bed was intended for an Iveco. One of the design specifications was that it had to survive extremely energetic sex, maybe with more than two people. (wishful thinking on the customers part) After a 4 month Spanish trip the owner decided it wasn't the life for him and abandoned the project and left me with the bed frame.
 

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